Tag Archives: flashlights

4Sevens Preon Li-Ion Beamshots – 200 lumens?

I had heard that using a Li-Ion 10440 cell in a Preon 1 could get close to 200 lumens of output, but I was skeptical. I had to try it for myself. While I have no way to accurately measure lumens, I can say that the claim is absolutely believable and I offer you some beamshots as exhibits. (All photos were taken with a Canon T3i set at 1/320, f/4.0, ISO 400)

Each of the following animated gifs shows 2 side-by-side beams from 2 different 4Sevens Preons on low/med/high and the caption below indicates which beam is which:


This is to be expected. The 4Sevens website states that the Preon 2 more than doubles the lumen counts of the Preon 1(70 lumens to 160).


 1-AAA NiMH/1-10440 Li-Ion

Again, this is to be expected. We are comparing a 3.7v battery to a 1.5v battery.


 1-10440 Li-Ion/2-AAA  NiMH

This is where I got excited. Not really surprised, but excited that a single cell could so obviously outperform the 2 AAA batteries.


In Conclusion:

My completely unscientific comparisons found the Preon 1 with the single 10440 Li-Ion battery to be brighter than even the Preon 2 with two AAA NiMH batteries. How much brighter should be measured with a scientific instrument, but I would definitely believe that the Li-Ion Preon 1 is 40+ lumens(25%) brighter than the NiMH Preon 2. It is pretty cool to have access to so many lumens in such a small package.

The batteries used in this comparison were AAA Samsung Eneloops and ICR 10440 350mAh batteries.

The 10440 batteries can be purchased from Super T Manufacturing.

The Samsung Eneloops were purchased from Amazon.com.

Purchase the Preon 1 from Amazon.com for $35

This is not an endorsement for Li-Ion in the Preon and this is not recommended for an EDC setup. The Preon head heats up very quickly and could cause damage to the circuits. Your light will no longer be under warranty. 

Long Time No Post

And I’m very sorry! I will definitely remedy this problem. I have been doing lots of research lately and I realized that it would be a shame not to be sharing the things I am learning. In the meanwhile, go check out my 4Sevens Preon Review posted over at ITSTactical.com:


Feather-Weight EDC

How light can you make you EDC?

This is a question I have been asking myself a lot lately.

I have been trying to carry smaller and lighter knives and lights. I have been trying to trim the gear that doesn’t get used as often. As much as I love scary looking knives and blinding flashlights, I haven’t really found myself wishing for a bigger blade or more lumens. I know it sounds like heresy, but I’m enjoying the freedom of minimalist, ultralight EDC.

The lighter and more comfortable you make your EDC gear, the more likely you are to have it on you when you need it. Hardcore EDC types don’t need the extra comfort, but they will definitely benefit from the freedom. You don’t have to worry about sitting properly so you don’t poke yourself. You don’t have to worry about printing your monster knife. I realize that part of it is just mental, but it’s still liberating.

I know that an ultralight EDC loadout isn’t really for everyday and it isn’t for everyone, but it sure feels nice!

Here’s what I’m carrying today:

  • Spyderco Dragonfly (Tom Krein Regrind)
  • Innova Microlight
  • iPod Nano
  • Minimal Keychain


High Color Rendition Lights and Diapers

I just read a light review from Tony over at EverydayCommentary.com where he mentioned the importance of good color rendition in his light:

It is awfully helpful at night, allowing me to distinguish between diapers while changing my son (he needs special, “extra pee” nighttime diapers and they are a different color scheme, both of which use variations of red).

This is the perfect example of how everyone’s use cases and needs in EDC gear are different. You don’t need the latest, coolest gear. You need the gear that fits your needs.

Surefire Motion Activated Light

Marshall Hoots of GoingGear talks to Ron from Surefire about a new technology that allows users to activate a light using programmable motion like a unique flick or shake of the wrist.  It uses a combination accelerometer/gyroscope to pick up on the movements for programming and activation.  This sounds like a seriously awesome idea!

Creative Flashlight Charging Stand

Jason of Dark Sucks/ Promethius Lights posted photos back in October of the second light that he made.  The light is interesting enough on it’s own, but what caught my eye was the custom charging station he built to go along with it.  Although I assume it is still possible, he didn’t feel like removing the batteries for charging.  He came up with this contraption to do the trick:

The black sleeve is Delrin and the base is 304 Stainless.  Inside the base, there are 2 neodymium magnets that float up to make contact for charging or drop down flush in the base otherwise.  There are 2 fixed matching magnets in the light itself that mate with the 2 floating magnets during charging.  The center post is negative and the outside post is positive. This is to make sure that you cannot accidentally reverse the polarity.  You can just stick it in the stand and rotate till the outside magnet rises and clicks into place.  According to Jason, “It’s audible and tactile.”  In my opinion, it’s ingenious.

Check out more of his work at: http://darksucks.blogspot.com/ or http://darksucks.com/store%20homeT.html

Here is the original CPF Thread

4Sevens Preon 1 Vs. Streamlight Microstream

Before the push button/ clicky tailcap modification that Zodiac Engineering did on my 4Sevens Preon 1, I was searching for a better clicky tailcap mechanism for a AAA light.  I was frustrated by the OEM clicky tailcap on the 4Sevens Preon 1, but I read on some forums that it was possible to remove the glued-on Streamlight Microstream head and use it’s body with the 4Sevens Preon head(with a much better interface).  I received my Streamlight Microstream about a week ago and immediately started carrying it to get a feel for the push button.  I have to say that I’m not impressed.  My biggest complaint is how difficult the button is to depress.  On my light, it starts out with the same required pressure as the 4Sevens Preon, but as you reach the bottom where the switch will click, it requires more and more pressure.

Yes, the extra pressure makes it less likely to be turned on in your pocket, but when you are frequently using the light, it makes life miserable for the user.  I’ll continue carrying it for a little longer to see if it grows on me, but as of right now, I’m ready to head back to the 4Sevens Preon 1 with the push button/ clicky tailcap modified by Zodiac Engineering.

Here are some photos comparing the 2 lights:




What is a Crenelated Bezel?

Let’s look at definitions of the two words:

Crenelation: A crenelation (from Latin crena, “notch”) is a series of indentations or loopholes around the top of a castle, battlement, or wall—with each indentation being a crenelle (or crenel).

Here are a few crude examples of different types of crenelation:

BezelA bezel is a retaining outer rim

Here is a crenelated watch bezel:


When we combine the two terms and apply them to lights or flashlights, we come up with some pretty cool crenelated bezels:

These are often referred to as strike bezels for obvious reasons.  Later, we’ll address the uses for and practicality of crenelated bezels.

For now, just marvel at the aesthetically pleasing engineering work!

Best Flashlight Safety Warning Ever!

I saw this awesome warning recently few days ago:

This flashlight poses a risk of personal injury and property damage if not handled and operated with great caution. This light is not a toy and should not be used by or entrusted to anyone other than a knowledgeable and cautious individual. Heat: The very high current from the battery and to the LED generates a great deal of heat very quickly, and the relatively low mass in this very small flashlight prevents heat dissipation at a rate that would permit extended operation of the light at a high output level. When driven to its output capacity, heat reaches a level making the light too hot to hold within minutes or less. Either the light should be turned off or Peak™s proprietary QTC system should be used to reduce the output before this happens. If left unattended, build-up of heat could reach the point of ignition of nearby flammable objects. This light should never be operated at high output unless in the hand of an alert operator prepared to quickly reduce current and output. Batteries: All batteries are affected by heat and current draw, and if either becomes too great, a battery can be damaged. At a minimum, battery life can be significantly reduced. At worst, failure could be explosive. BATTERY FAILURE CAN OCCUR DURING USE, OR DURING ANY SUBSEQUENT RECHARGING OR USE. A protected battery is no guarantee against this. Regularly check batteries after use for signs of excessive heat. Always closely monitor the recharging process and follow safe practice procedures: use a quality charger; charge in a safe location, check status frequently; terminate the charge timely; inspect and test the battery after charging. IMR (LiMn) batteries are believed to safely handle currents much greater than any other battery chemistry and are therefore the preferred battery for this light. Other Li-Ion 10440 batteries are not designed for high current applications and when used in this light can be driven to the very limits of their design. Only new batteries of good quality should be used in this light. Battery voltage should also be checked regularly. At the first sing of reduced capacity or other problem the battery should be retired. Under no circumstances should this light be operated before the user has studied the important materials readily available on the subject. We suggest that users follow the advice and instruction posted throughout the CPF Forum and in the CPF Marketplace by respected dealers.


To some people, this warning makes the light in question even more attractive!  The light can be used as a fire-starter in a survival situation and keep you cold in winter.

I understand that these warnings are to limit liability and are a byproduct of our litigious society, but that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy them!

Here’s where it came from…

4Sevens Preon Clicky Tailcap Modification by Zodiac Engineering

I saw a photo of a modified Titanium tailcap on the Zodiac Engineering website back in November and e-mailed Ken about doing the modification for me.  I shipped him a Ti clicky tailcap directly from 4Sevens and 7 days from his receipt, it was out the door and on the way to me.  He was also kind enough to take some Work-in-progress photos for us all to drool over.  The white background photos are his.

I’ve been using it for several days now and I love it so far. The switch is completely recessed and it’s nice not having to worry about accidentally activating the light when I sit down.

The modification does widen the contact/resting surface and shorten the flashlight a little.  Both characteristics make the light more stable during tailstanding.

The pictures may make it look a little bulky, but the clicky tailcap actually only adds ~10% extra length(Preon 1).

  • Regular static tailcap – 76mm
  • With modified clicky tailcap – 83.5mm

The tailcap width is the exact same as the head(no extra width) and the extra weight is negligible(it’s Ti).

Obviously, every flashlight is a personal decision, but for me, the clicky tailcap is worth the small increase in size.

I can honestly say that I can’t notice a difference when carrying it, even when I’m trying.

In my opinion, it was totally worth the $16+shipping.  It made my favorite little light even better.

So what do you think?

Click on any of the images for a better view:

Selecting An EDC Flashlight


David Chow, founder of 4Sevens flashlights comes on the show to discuss the many aspects of an EDC flashlight.

We discuss:

  • The LED revolution
  • Lumen wars – is more really better?
  • Selecting good batteries
  • Advantages of different interfaces
  • and much more!